Welcome to Paradise
Of course the plane from Calcutta and later Nina and I are only at 21 clock in Mumbai at. The way back from Sikkim was again two flights: Bagdogra to Calcutta and then to Mumbai and Calcutta, like all domestic flights were during our vacation this again punctual. Fortunately, this has seemingly routine so much that you can be sure that the connecting flight is late, you will not miss him so. And after all: it seems to be programmatic about 40-60 minutes, no more and no less to act, delay. So what the heck.
Well, unfortunately, led to the late arrival, we had no time to drive to downtown and the few interesting buildings to look there, but luckily you do not miss so much. Downtown is anyway not the real Mumbai, and so we decided not so far away and to go to Juhu to go there to dine delicious. In Mumbai one can sometimes make things at home in Germany are not possible, so we walked a few minutes later by the palace-like lobby of the JW Marriott hotels and one of its top restaurants, where we in stylish of environments a wonderful Teppan Yaki Menu enjoyed. Somehow we did not realize the consequences issue received us as we cook the question of whether we would like garlic in food, happily said yes and so we ended up at the end of happy drunk, stuffed delicate and each of us with at least one whole head of garlic in the abdomen.
Then we had to move all of two hours of sleep for us in the middle of the night to the airport where we suddenly realized what it really means to smell of garlic. I will detail the moment no further, and in any case the food was great and we so tired at the airport that we have our flags not further disturbed. I had Nina
way up to this evening in Mumbai never told where to go to the onward journey would only that it would be small islands and fantastic beaches. On the roads in Sikkim are many people enthusiastically reported from the Andaman Islands and so suspected Nina has just that, but although I had initially planned really just that, was to have been different. I thought then, if you already on an archipelago of many smaller atolls, then you want to see something more than just a tiny island, and therefore it is best to rattle the islands in a boat. But as in India, the tourism industry, surprisingly, still in its infancy and such island cruises are not offered, I was looking for an alternative solution in the vicinity of India and found it: a little more expensive, but fantastic with a world-renowned reputation islands: the Maldives.
We stood there so totally exhausted in the middle of the night at the stupid airport, of course, German-time 2 hours before departure, as required by the airlines and yet as the first. So I kept watch for the baggage, while Nina fell asleep on my shoulder and I waited again Boarding (the course was again late, surprise, surprise!). And finally, we flew to Bangalore, there were up and then flew to Male in the Maldives, where we order about 13 clock (arrived one hour late).
Even the approach was spectacular: the view over the archipelago with many small atolls that look from above, a bit like fried eggs, was beautiful. Most atolls are just 3-8 meters below the Wasseroeberfläche and so you can see from above the turquoise-blue circles under water. I knew that I had expected something would, but when I saw it then really, I was so excited and happy as a little child getting his gift pressed into his hand. And finally landing on an elongated island Hulule, located right next time: more than a runway and there is no place on the approach to the runway first, one floats several hundred meters to ten meters above the atoll along. I thought not: "Oh dear, we end up in the same water," but ". Geil, now on the window and I want to jump into that water!".
As we got off the plane, we received a warm, moist air in Mumbai, but for clean fresh sea smell and no strange smells, to a rise in Mumbai sometimes in the nose. Everything was clean and modern and in that moment, I thought so, "Here I am right." Finally, we were by a representative of the travel agency through which I had booked the trip picked up and transferred to our boat manager, who was shortly afterwards on the spot. Since Nina had lost her sunglasses in Sikkim, we made a little trip to Male (the airport, as already mentioned on the neighboring island Hulule and neighboring island to island neighbor to travel by ferry). On the way we saw all kinds of fish under water and in the harbor the water was again of the same turquoise blue, inviting color that we had seen from the plane.
times is itself not particularly worth seeing. The backdrop of the city however, I found impressive: this seems a small island to the edge to be built over with houses and allegedly there is the highest population density in the world: 80,000 people on a few square kilometers. However, I suspect that this is "the city with the highest population density" meant, because if you've seen here in Mumbai, the gröchste slum in the world with over one million inhabitants once outside, one can hardly imagine that it even closer is and dense saw times from not, fortunately for its residents. In any case, time is not very spectacular, despite the presence of just interesting to see how a city looks like in the Maldives, for it is the only real city in the Maldives. In 40 minutes walking you have seen everything worth mentioning and that's it. It is cleaner and more modern than India and the only really interesting thing was the fact that you had the feeling that there are no women in this city. The probably were all at home. Oh, and interesting, we also found that there are only state-arranged half-day work and to make after 14 clock all major business and government. A country where there is only half day of work! Almost unbelievable, right? Cruel to customers, but great for the employees. After our little trip
was it then by Dhoni, the support vessel of the vessel on which we would spend the next week, go to the ship, the Baani Explorer, which I had previously only seen in pictures on the Internet, and of course I was beastly wait to see how they actually would look like. The first impression was good then also. A sleek, but not ostentatious yacht waiting for us there and, appropriately, also have the same lunch in the cozy living room, which suited us well because we were quite hungry.
Nina and I were the last that day arrived at the airport and all the other guests were at our arrival on a boat out on the first dive on the way to find out together at all, how much experience each individual brings with them. This is called a check dive. Since we were never dived before, you have not waited for us and we were with the crew still on first for half an hour alone on board.
The first impression of the crew was a little different than I expected. There were only men, all very young and very casual. First impressions also: Maldivian Beach Boys. The boys looked so cool that I asked myself, is whether they are the right floating on a hotel, but any concerns were resolved quickly, because the service was really great and everyone was really nice and funny.
Now we were curious to see how things stood with our fellow travelers. First impression: all nice, only we were clearly the youngest in the Guppe. Not really surprising, for it was a diving safari and scuba diving is an expensive hobby, which can really only afford professionals. The age difference was no problem and the entire group as a whole was a really nice bunch without a grouch or snob. By the way, we, two thirds were German, which meant that we almost spoke German the whole time.
The ship and two more will be managed by Gundi, an Austrian, and that was funny enough, even just this week on the boat, professionally, but obviously quite relaxed and enjoy half-holiday quent. By Gundi, of course, come a lot German-speaking people on the boat and through word of mouth solidifies a kind of clientele that is growing constantly determined. No wonder, for the whole trip on the boat was just fabulous and absolutely recommend it to.
addition Gundi will each ship passed again by an ever-present manager and the boat was our instructor: Hussen, a genuinely nice and cool guy, with whom we had a lot of fun. Oh yes, Hussen sounds Arabic, right? Exactly. This is because the Maldives is an Islamic Republic and actually accommodate 100% Muslim. Something unfortunate is that the government has enforced a very strict division between locals and tourists, which means that it practically there are two separate worlds: the purely foreign tourist resorts and the local islands. Alcohol is actually illegal, but available for tourists. At the resorts, women can walk around in bikinis on the local islands would be regarded lightly as an affront. Crazy.
Now back to the boat: Our cabin was one of two suites, located on the upper deck, spacious held as the cabins on the lower deck, in rustic wood and bamboo and are very cozy and beautiful, with windows onto the sea beyond. Fantastic! Even with private bathroom, clean and with hot water. So you can live, I tell you. The cabin was done twice a day and there were regularly clean towels. Our bed linen was every time a new and cute form folded on the bed, sometimes as a fish, star or half sun. Creative. In addition, two feet out of the door expecting the sun loungers on which we also like rumgelümmelt afternoon and read.
The next day we went wrong with our diving course. Only Hussen, Nina and me. Exclusive. Very cool. So off we went to a small secluded lagoon, where we jumped into the waist-high, crystal clear water and could try out the equipment first and then at the lagoon edge to three meters depth have to admire the first fish. A strange feeling of water just to breathe Sun Fascinating! At the same time it is initially, getting used to if you get the salt water into the nose or eyes, what the first male is still burning and irritation. This leaves but soon after and the breathing is natural. My biggest concern, the pressure on the ears while diving into the deep, turned quickly out to be unwarranted, because if you regularly pushes the air from the nose and the lungs to the ears, you can not really as deep as you want to dive, without getting pain.
Full of anticipation for the next dive we came back from the boat and could not wait, as soon as possible to keep going. However, we also have the first 4 days quite a lot of hours spent teaching materials to read theoretical diving course. Of course we would rather have done something else, but the theory was easy and so it was not too annoying. Diving does not require much skill, but also knowledge and experience. Without knowledge one can easily get into dangerous situations without the experience can be more easily panic in unfamiliar situations, what's the worst that can happen to you. Diving is very athletic, but more comfortable and meditative. Instead rumzuschwimmen much, it usually hovers more in the water and watch the underwater world. It's not about power, but the experience of the world down there and that is simple wonderful.
After three dives without the initial group, we could then finally the fourth time with a reef, where there was more to see and behold, now we could enjoy our first, quite fat Grauhai, ahead of his rounds moved. Looked like 2 feet, but everything looks bigger underwater than it was probably only as 1.60 meters high. Still cool. Not at all scary, but impressive. In a round killed Miniriffchen we met a swarm still Jungbarracudas, a grandfather and a wrong-Barracuda variety of colorful fish, such as the clown fish (Nemo =), by the way, are actually in the sea anemones always forward and backward out new items, swimming (As quoted in Nemo). Lustig is also the doctor fish, which have for some reason great interest in air bubbles and swam like to rave about our heads and scratch their bellies were from the bubbles.
Upcoming dives gave us moray eels, rays, turtles, frog fish, tuna fish of all kinds, even more, but rather small sharks, wahoo, squid, and so on and so forth. The best way I found the turtles. They are cute and easy to move despite their form portly incredibly graceful. Funny, the advances were one male cuttlefish that a relatively bold female ranmachte and it makes sales department. One of the dive guide on this When it was still all night mentioned how tragic it was that we had missed the act. These squids are already bizarre creatures, but what they rumtentakelten because they were kind of pathetic. Ah yes, the diving was great and I've been thinking for when and how I can do it again the next time something like that.
Besides diving, we enjoyed the best views of uninhabited islands with white sand and palm trees and turquoise lagoons. The food, which the chef conjured up was really great and the bartender was also well on it. On the last night we were baptized into true-divers and we were hard hammer Long Iceland Ice Tea is poured into the snorkel, not in the water course. Then We had a good name in the crown and a few more drinks on the sun deck under the endless sky. I want to go back! Determined
I have now mentioned many things yet, but it must be experienced, have to understand how beautiful are the diving and the Maldives. We were blown away. People, if that sounds fantastic, should you give you the beiweilen sometimes. Although real expensive, but wow: it's just like in the pictures in the travel brochure. I'm just afraid that it is addictive; D
Anyway, I am still happy when I think back on it and I'll hang you in the coming years even in the ears. Last but I wanted to have one Say it with Nina was just plain cool. Even when hiking, I was impressed that she pouted not even know where I sometimes even close to giving up was, and in diving, the one indeed can sometimes scare, it was full of enthusiasm. It is fun and easy with such a strong partner to experience adventure. After such a long time that we had not seen, it was just really nice to finally go to the team through life and to enjoy time together without any problems and concerns. They also looked cool off =))) Hehe.
And now I leave you even a little bit of waiting to follow the pictures a lot, and even if they can not catch everything, they give at least one Fraction of the beauty that Nina and I've experienced in the Maldives. So stay tuned and look forward to a bunch of nice pics.
Cheers, Your Robert
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Auditioning For Disney Cruise
Sikkim in the Himalayas in pictures
I'm back and I now share the last time, my impressions with you in the form of images. Instead of long rumzufackeln,'s're off now ...
The Bridge on the border post to Sikkim, giant bamboo lined. Under the gate with the inscription "Welcome to Sikkim", the travelers waiting for their papers to be approved by the checkpoint. Sikkim is disputed territory, on the charge you claim China, and is therefore not bereisbar without special permission.
along after long 5 hour drive on steep mountain slopes up to the last major town (Yuksom) that can be reached by jeep yet, and another night, our group is waiting with the ponies on us to make it start right can (the group photo was shy).
below 3000 meters altitude, the mountains are overgrown and green, almost jungle-like, and the warm, humid air can believe you, you move to 2000 meters deep.
But the steep ravines and in between times the views of the valley remind one of how far you have already risen. 6 hours and 1000 meters on the first day (Still half way).
between, you have to wait from time to time by the roadside, not to be pushed down by the stubborn Dzos the slope.
And everywhere you can see far, the prayer flags waving ... and here the wood planks of the bridge creaked quite a bit. Since I had to think of Indiana Jones 2: "very stable, Indie Look!" and then break the slats ...
The last village, at 3,000 meters above sea level, with no road access and water, but incredibly peaceful and beautiful ...
And although there are apparently only two are handful of residents, we see the offspring. The little girl was here heartwarming cute. You can see the difference from the "lowland Indians" significantly.
evening we have the "local wine" warmed up again, because here it was the first time in the evening cool. The wine tastes like a particularly fruity sake (Japanese rice wine) and is formed by pouring hot water on fermented, small berries. And the best part is that you can pour over again and it does not cease to act on; D
In May, the Rododendrensaison and everything's coming up (below 4000 meters) (and smell) the bushes.
On almost 4000 meters arrived, we treat as asthma and wheeze us a break on a small ridge. Our guide, our cook, and another hiker look relaxed visibly. Also fascinating as the boys high jump partly in shorts and flip-flops there. Born to Climb! I just say ...
Although the clouds are set to 4500 meters, it is worth the view. Tomorrow night we were back there resting on the river ...
Our first night at 4,000 meters and the clouds are set the same, but we are looking forward to the second successful circuit rise of an additional 1,000 meters of altitude. Afternoon, there would still hail and snow. There was then clear that we have arrived slowly higher.
The next morning, before sunrise. Spooky hang prayer flags flutter over us and. Heads pounding, the heart and the diluted clouds our view of the third-highest view of the world, the Kanchendzonga (~ 8600m). Later the term would clarify, but the clouds stayed at 4500 meters.
unwegiges debris from going over there to the river bed and up again on the way to the next stop. In between we have to flee from the Dzos that run downhill faster and creates a huge horns with the feeling we are currently in Pamplona, and must be careful not to be impaled. Perhaps you feel at the high pulse but simply just more vulnerable.
A small tributary of the wild mountain stream, we would still walk along for another hour. Breathtaking sensations.
Arriving at the next camp. Nina rests, and the ponies are flocking to it. When the clouds broke up it would look just right in big mountain, but do not the clouds. Still great here!
The highest point of our trip: a sacred mountain lake at 4300-4400 meters. Because of the clouds we decide at the next Day, not to rise even higher, because we had seen only white.
The next morning confirmed our expectations: the clouds feel on top of where they are soft and do not go away.
So it goes down again in a different way this time, and spooky forests and light fog. But it is getting warmer ... but also wetter.
expected even a day later we finally got our compensation: a quaint hotel ...
And finally the view of the summit! Or does it not? No! Unfortunately not, because what we saw here was the neighboring peaks, the "only" 6000 meters high. How then would have looked like the Kanchendzonga? We may not know, but we were happy anyway.
I hope you enjoyed the pictures as we do our walk. Long live the Himalayas!
I'm back and I now share the last time, my impressions with you in the form of images. Instead of long rumzufackeln,'s're off now ...
The Bridge on the border post to Sikkim, giant bamboo lined. Under the gate with the inscription "Welcome to Sikkim", the travelers waiting for their papers to be approved by the checkpoint. Sikkim is disputed territory, on the charge you claim China, and is therefore not bereisbar without special permission.
along after long 5 hour drive on steep mountain slopes up to the last major town (Yuksom) that can be reached by jeep yet, and another night, our group is waiting with the ponies on us to make it start right can (the group photo was shy).
below 3000 meters altitude, the mountains are overgrown and green, almost jungle-like, and the warm, humid air can believe you, you move to 2000 meters deep.
But the steep ravines and in between times the views of the valley remind one of how far you have already risen. 6 hours and 1000 meters on the first day (Still half way).
between, you have to wait from time to time by the roadside, not to be pushed down by the stubborn Dzos the slope.
And everywhere you can see far, the prayer flags waving ... and here the wood planks of the bridge creaked quite a bit. Since I had to think of Indiana Jones 2: "very stable, Indie Look!" and then break the slats ...
The last village, at 3,000 meters above sea level, with no road access and water, but incredibly peaceful and beautiful ...
And although there are apparently only two are handful of residents, we see the offspring. The little girl was here heartwarming cute. You can see the difference from the "lowland Indians" significantly.
evening we have the "local wine" warmed up again, because here it was the first time in the evening cool. The wine tastes like a particularly fruity sake (Japanese rice wine) and is formed by pouring hot water on fermented, small berries. And the best part is that you can pour over again and it does not cease to act on; D
In May, the Rododendrensaison and everything's coming up (below 4000 meters) (and smell) the bushes.
On almost 4000 meters arrived, we treat as asthma and wheeze us a break on a small ridge. Our guide, our cook, and another hiker look relaxed visibly. Also fascinating as the boys high jump partly in shorts and flip-flops there. Born to Climb! I just say ...
Although the clouds are set to 4500 meters, it is worth the view. Tomorrow night we were back there resting on the river ...
Our first night at 4,000 meters and the clouds are set the same, but we are looking forward to the second successful circuit rise of an additional 1,000 meters of altitude. Afternoon, there would still hail and snow. There was then clear that we have arrived slowly higher.
The next morning, before sunrise. Spooky hang prayer flags flutter over us and. Heads pounding, the heart and the diluted clouds our view of the third-highest view of the world, the Kanchendzonga (~ 8600m). Later the term would clarify, but the clouds stayed at 4500 meters.
unwegiges debris from going over there to the river bed and up again on the way to the next stop. In between we have to flee from the Dzos that run downhill faster and creates a huge horns with the feeling we are currently in Pamplona, and must be careful not to be impaled. Perhaps you feel at the high pulse but simply just more vulnerable.
A small tributary of the wild mountain stream, we would still walk along for another hour. Breathtaking sensations.
Arriving at the next camp. Nina rests, and the ponies are flocking to it. When the clouds broke up it would look just right in big mountain, but do not the clouds. Still great here!
The highest point of our trip: a sacred mountain lake at 4300-4400 meters. Because of the clouds we decide at the next Day, not to rise even higher, because we had seen only white.
The next morning confirmed our expectations: the clouds feel on top of where they are soft and do not go away.
So it goes down again in a different way this time, and spooky forests and light fog. But it is getting warmer ... but also wetter.
expected even a day later we finally got our compensation: a quaint hotel ...
And finally the view of the summit! Or does it not? No! Unfortunately not, because what we saw here was the neighboring peaks, the "only" 6000 meters high. How then would have looked like the Kanchendzonga? We may not know, but we were happy anyway. I hope you enjoyed the pictures as we do our walk. Long live the Himalayas!
Friday, May 11, 2007
Why Does My Face Look Uneven
Breathless
Phew, what a hike! Since last night, Nina and I are back in the valley (at about 2,000 meters) in Yuksom, a town in West Sikkim. Who wants to visit Sikkim on the world map, you must first look to India, Nepal and Bhutan. Sikkim is a small tip of India in the mid north, the west by Nepal, on the north by Tibet (official said in China) and to the west Bhutan borders. Here in Sikkim to India seems to have already left, for country and people are totally different. In the lower parts it looks here, how to Indochina presents, full of green, jungle-like vegetation on hills and Bambushuettchen. If you walk into the higher mountains, it is rugged and only soft Rododendrenbueschen the woods and then later the bushes in an increasingly rocky, pebbly, very rugged landscape.
We were now six days in the mountains and are beginning from here in Yuksom where we are right now, started, accompanied by 5 people: our guide, our cook, our pony-guide and two porters. A little surprised about this Entourage we were, because I had somehow only with a companion expected, as I had booked the trek from Mumbai. Have to imagine you've once: 2 hikers and 5 helpers!
The hikes were beautiful, varied, but hard and every time we are in the course of the day presented a new landscape, we had the feeling to have won this sight also correct. The first two days we put every 1000 meters of altitude, so we arrived on the second night at 4,000 meters altitude. There, we experienced snow, and even after the first night on this unusual height, we woke up with pounding heads. From 3500 meters, most people begin to show the first signs of altitude sickness and we were not spared. To Luckily it was only mild to moderate headache and other symptoms that were a force to descend from. Anyone who has bad luck, gets a pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs) that a cost of several days in the life of neglect, but these are all just horror stories, right?
next 2 days we moved not higher, but we approached our destination, which at 5,000 meters located Goechala Pass. That was a good thing, because in the thin air up there is walking a very different world. After 2 minutes, climb a hill my heart beat have been running as after a 100 meter sprint at full power and we had to very slowly and more often load times breathers. The noticeably thin Air forces you to hit more and breathe deeper and your heart faster to transport oxygen more often smaller doses to the cells. I wonder how the Messner that has survived on a double height, 8000 meters from 4000. Since then the brain must be soft ...
Every day we spent us almost to the limit and who has no head strong and well trained legs, which I advise against such a hike. However, we were surprised not too bad of a senior walking group who described their migration to the same paths as entertaining. The secret is probably in the speed and time in which one travels in altitude. Say, who does not fit feels, but still very welcome here, simply a few more days to schedule and address the whole thing just slower.
We slept in part in Wandererhuetten and partly in tents. Unfortunately, there was no opportunity to warm himself, for in the national park is a cozy fireplace or a stove illegal in Wanderhuetten and so cold there all hikers quite frankly the ass, unless they have brought arctic jackets. When you're done with the 3-6 hour day route is still nothing more than a sleeping bag and a cup of tea regularly.
Which brings us to the supply. That was incredible. Three times a day we received by our chef served up a buffet with 5 courts, almost without repetition of dishes, and always delicious. Actually, we had to do anything other than walking anyway: our bags were carried by the ponies, our tent was set up us and our food we got. The whole plan was just too perfect. We were picked up even on the first day from the airport and when we arrived at the starting point of the hiking trip in the hotel, there were already eating. And tomorrow we will be back to the airport.
The only two disappointments were the weather and the "Trinkgeldaffaere. The weather was great and the first 2 days we have captured both extreme Sonnenbraende. Then it was cloudy and we experienced rain, hail and even snow once. The destination of our tour, we were able to do so unfortunately do not reach and the third highest mountain in the world (Mount Kanchendzonga, 8500 meters), which can be seen from dortaus best, have not we get a time-to-eye, because the cloud cover constant 4000-5000 meters held. Still, it was to be absolutely worth it to us, if higher, because the scenery and the feeling of having done so much, were more important than the look on this one mountain.
The "Trinkgeldaffaere" was actually a bigger shocks. On the last day of the descent, we got a cake baked in the evening and were then informed by our guide that a tip was expected. Taboo # 1 broken: Tipping is not obtained, but gets it! But ok, recorded as cultural insensitivity. Perhaps you can find it here quite normal. Then Taboo No. 2: I want to exchange money for small change to have the individual crew members, our guide asks me how much I want to swap for, 4000 INR? Whether the guy is from Mars or has been provided only by the Queen of England with Trinkeld? They are the equivalent of 80 Euro, utopian by Indian standards! I was speechless: our guide turned out to be nicer than the seemingly cold, brazen money bargainers that we encounter in India, unfortunately, too often! What a deep disappointment, even from him, which we liked quite happy! I talk to Nina and we agree, but in the sum of us thought of 1000 to stay. After some back and forth we give even more, but with the feeling emotionally blackmailed and to want to have been cheated and have nothing to do with the crew. How ugly pending greed but a man!
Well, now we are sitting happy and warmed in the only Internet coffee in town here and spend a recent afternoon here, before tomorrow at the second part of the journey, which I will write about the earliest in 10 days. Then I will upload a lot of nice pictures here.
Abstract:
highest altitude reached: 4300 feet
highest increase in one day: 1000 meters
longest distance in one day: 20 km
coldest event: Wash in cold mountain river maybe 3 degrees
nasty event: discovery of a leech on my foot (luckily only once)
read books: 1
lost / body weight obtained: -2 pounds of fat, +2 pounds muscles
days with headache: 3 / 6
sunny days: 2 / 6 nor
What?
are the Dzos Lustig, a cross between cow and yak. On the narrow roads we had to watch several times a day to run the other way, are not of these vehicles, but purposeful Gepaecktieren. Somehow they were still cute.
And then there was the dog walker, a loyal mountain dog that always follows the walkers and us in 2 days, my heart grew. Unfortunately, met on 4 Day to another fellow and luckily after a not-too-bloody territory to fight bebellten the two of them land the next 10 hours. Corrosive!
cool: we played at 4,000 meters with a hand-carved Schlaeger Cricket and Nina has proved to be a natural talent (and I improved my bowling). Oh, sorry, I must confess that my cricket is great fun ... I definitely bring a club to Berlin and then show it to everyone.
Ok, more stories and pictures then, as I said, in about 10 days. Until then, many greetings from the Himalayas. The first half of the journey we have not injured and inspires us behind ...
Phew, what a hike! Since last night, Nina and I are back in the valley (at about 2,000 meters) in Yuksom, a town in West Sikkim. Who wants to visit Sikkim on the world map, you must first look to India, Nepal and Bhutan. Sikkim is a small tip of India in the mid north, the west by Nepal, on the north by Tibet (official said in China) and to the west Bhutan borders. Here in Sikkim to India seems to have already left, for country and people are totally different. In the lower parts it looks here, how to Indochina presents, full of green, jungle-like vegetation on hills and Bambushuettchen. If you walk into the higher mountains, it is rugged and only soft Rododendrenbueschen the woods and then later the bushes in an increasingly rocky, pebbly, very rugged landscape.
We were now six days in the mountains and are beginning from here in Yuksom where we are right now, started, accompanied by 5 people: our guide, our cook, our pony-guide and two porters. A little surprised about this Entourage we were, because I had somehow only with a companion expected, as I had booked the trek from Mumbai. Have to imagine you've once: 2 hikers and 5 helpers!
The hikes were beautiful, varied, but hard and every time we are in the course of the day presented a new landscape, we had the feeling to have won this sight also correct. The first two days we put every 1000 meters of altitude, so we arrived on the second night at 4,000 meters altitude. There, we experienced snow, and even after the first night on this unusual height, we woke up with pounding heads. From 3500 meters, most people begin to show the first signs of altitude sickness and we were not spared. To Luckily it was only mild to moderate headache and other symptoms that were a force to descend from. Anyone who has bad luck, gets a pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs) that a cost of several days in the life of neglect, but these are all just horror stories, right?
next 2 days we moved not higher, but we approached our destination, which at 5,000 meters located Goechala Pass. That was a good thing, because in the thin air up there is walking a very different world. After 2 minutes, climb a hill my heart beat have been running as after a 100 meter sprint at full power and we had to very slowly and more often load times breathers. The noticeably thin Air forces you to hit more and breathe deeper and your heart faster to transport oxygen more often smaller doses to the cells. I wonder how the Messner that has survived on a double height, 8000 meters from 4000. Since then the brain must be soft ...
Every day we spent us almost to the limit and who has no head strong and well trained legs, which I advise against such a hike. However, we were surprised not too bad of a senior walking group who described their migration to the same paths as entertaining. The secret is probably in the speed and time in which one travels in altitude. Say, who does not fit feels, but still very welcome here, simply a few more days to schedule and address the whole thing just slower.
We slept in part in Wandererhuetten and partly in tents. Unfortunately, there was no opportunity to warm himself, for in the national park is a cozy fireplace or a stove illegal in Wanderhuetten and so cold there all hikers quite frankly the ass, unless they have brought arctic jackets. When you're done with the 3-6 hour day route is still nothing more than a sleeping bag and a cup of tea regularly.
Which brings us to the supply. That was incredible. Three times a day we received by our chef served up a buffet with 5 courts, almost without repetition of dishes, and always delicious. Actually, we had to do anything other than walking anyway: our bags were carried by the ponies, our tent was set up us and our food we got. The whole plan was just too perfect. We were picked up even on the first day from the airport and when we arrived at the starting point of the hiking trip in the hotel, there were already eating. And tomorrow we will be back to the airport.
The only two disappointments were the weather and the "Trinkgeldaffaere. The weather was great and the first 2 days we have captured both extreme Sonnenbraende. Then it was cloudy and we experienced rain, hail and even snow once. The destination of our tour, we were able to do so unfortunately do not reach and the third highest mountain in the world (Mount Kanchendzonga, 8500 meters), which can be seen from dortaus best, have not we get a time-to-eye, because the cloud cover constant 4000-5000 meters held. Still, it was to be absolutely worth it to us, if higher, because the scenery and the feeling of having done so much, were more important than the look on this one mountain.
The "Trinkgeldaffaere" was actually a bigger shocks. On the last day of the descent, we got a cake baked in the evening and were then informed by our guide that a tip was expected. Taboo # 1 broken: Tipping is not obtained, but gets it! But ok, recorded as cultural insensitivity. Perhaps you can find it here quite normal. Then Taboo No. 2: I want to exchange money for small change to have the individual crew members, our guide asks me how much I want to swap for, 4000 INR? Whether the guy is from Mars or has been provided only by the Queen of England with Trinkeld? They are the equivalent of 80 Euro, utopian by Indian standards! I was speechless: our guide turned out to be nicer than the seemingly cold, brazen money bargainers that we encounter in India, unfortunately, too often! What a deep disappointment, even from him, which we liked quite happy! I talk to Nina and we agree, but in the sum of us thought of 1000 to stay. After some back and forth we give even more, but with the feeling emotionally blackmailed and to want to have been cheated and have nothing to do with the crew. How ugly pending greed but a man!
Well, now we are sitting happy and warmed in the only Internet coffee in town here and spend a recent afternoon here, before tomorrow at the second part of the journey, which I will write about the earliest in 10 days. Then I will upload a lot of nice pictures here.
Abstract:
highest altitude reached: 4300 feet
highest increase in one day: 1000 meters
longest distance in one day: 20 km
coldest event: Wash in cold mountain river maybe 3 degrees
nasty event: discovery of a leech on my foot (luckily only once)
read books: 1
lost / body weight obtained: -2 pounds of fat, +2 pounds muscles
days with headache: 3 / 6
sunny days: 2 / 6 nor
What?
are the Dzos Lustig, a cross between cow and yak. On the narrow roads we had to watch several times a day to run the other way, are not of these vehicles, but purposeful Gepaecktieren. Somehow they were still cute.
And then there was the dog walker, a loyal mountain dog that always follows the walkers and us in 2 days, my heart grew. Unfortunately, met on 4 Day to another fellow and luckily after a not-too-bloody territory to fight bebellten the two of them land the next 10 hours. Corrosive!
cool: we played at 4,000 meters with a hand-carved Schlaeger Cricket and Nina has proved to be a natural talent (and I improved my bowling). Oh, sorry, I must confess that my cricket is great fun ... I definitely bring a club to Berlin and then show it to everyone.
Ok, more stories and pictures then, as I said, in about 10 days. Until then, many greetings from the Himalayas. The first half of the journey we have not injured and inspires us behind ...
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